Stölzle Lausitz Quatrophil

The 40.5 cl is the glass for white wine: small enough to stay cold, with a bowl that still leaves room to swirl. The 57 cl is the all-rounder in which a full-bodied white and a light red both come into their own, and this is the glass you will reach for most often. The 64.5 cl is meant for red wine with structure, where the taller bowl gives tannin the time to settle. All three take the same pour of 12 to 15 cl. See also the wine glasses for the full choice and the white wine glasses for smaller bowls.

A glass with a pulled stem is held at the bottom of the stem or by the foot, never by the bowl. That is not just etiquette: with a thin wall you can feel your hand warming the wine within a minute. Pour to about a third, swirl once and smell before you drink. The 29 cl flute holds the bubbles for a long time, which also makes it suitable for a champagne cocktail or a kir royal.

Thin crystal glass is not weak, but it is unforgiving: a knock against the tap or against another stem in the basket shows immediately. This range can go in the dishwasher on a short glass programme, provided the bowls never touch. Polish with a lint-free cloth and hold the bowl rather than twisting the foot, because twisting puts the force on the join.

If you are after something sturdier from the same brand, Starlight is the logical choice, with a wider range of sizes; all the ranges are grouped together under Stölzle Lausitz. For larger bowls and red wine with structure, look at the red wine glasses, where the sizes above 60 cl are gathered. The individual sparkling models sit among the champagne flutes, together with coupes from other ranges.